The Vintage Purse Gallery was delighted to have the
opportunity to interview Aaron Blumenkranz, descendent of Ida Jolles, an entrepreneurial
legend in the history of 20th century purse manufacturing.
Jolles Studios business card
Vintage Purse Gallery: How are you related to Ida Jolles?
Aaron Blumenkranz: I
am her great-grandson and my two daughters, of course, are her
great-great-granddaughters. My wife was always interested in Ida’s story
and Jolles Original.
1955 Jolles petit-point booklet
VPG: Who started the
Jolles Original company?
AB: Ida Jolles
started it in the early twentieth century. Later, as the Viennese business
became successful and grew, she brought in her husband to help manage it.
Jolles needlework billfold and petit-point purse
VPG: What is her personal story?
AB: Despite being
born in Europe in 1897—a time and place where women were not welcome in
commerce—she grew up to build a large international company employing 20,000
people. Fluent in many languages, she traveled extensively. She had
enormous business savvy, and used what we consider to be twenty-first century
business techniques—such as outsourcing and allowing/encouraging employees to
work at home—well before her time. Perhaps even more important to her
success, this elegant lady also had exquisite taste and an eye for
beauty. But her main focus was always her family.
Jolles Plas-Ti-Cato and Plastic-Rol clutch purses.
VPG: How did she come to start her needlepoint business in
1923 in Austria?
AB: Ahh! Now
that’s a story! We tell some of it on our website, www.jollesoriginal.com.
Jolles basket bag with heavily embellished top
VPG: Was she able to get out of Europe during WWII? Where
did she go?
AB: Yes—and she got
her kids, husband and business out as well! The harrowing story of
outfoxing the Nazi soldier who had seized her husband and her business—and went
on to open studios in New York, Brussels, and Shanghai—is a tale as riveting as
a spy movie starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. In fact, my aunt
is working on a book, “The Lady and the Kommissar” that details this, and much
more. We will be sure to get an early copy to The Vintage Purse Gallery!
Trio of whimsical Jolles totes
VPG: After the war, how was she integral in rebuilding
Austria’s economy?
AB: Madame Jolles
was the first U.S. civilian sent under the Marshall Plan to help rehabilitate
the Austrian economy after World War II.
Jolles penguin handbag created by Ida's daughter, Stella
VPG: Please share with us some of the commendations she
received as a world leader.
AB: She received
the Austrian Cross of Honor for helping the Viennese economy after World War I,
and, as mentioned above, was the first civilian sent by the U.S. government
under the Marshall Plan to help again after World War II. At that time she
also became very active in helping improve medical conditions in Taiwan,
endowing hospitals and medical laboratories. She knew Chiang Kai Shek, and got
medals from his government for this humanitarian work.
Poodle purse, highly collectible, also created by Stella Jolles
VPG: In The Vintage Purse Gallery’s collection, we have
Jolles Original needlepoint and petit point purses, and Jolles Plastic-Rol and
Plas-Ti-Cato purses, as well as some 1960s cage purses, embellished corduroy
totes and even ones with poodle, penguin and marlin motifs. These are highly
desired by collectors! Do you know how the company evolved to make these
engaging designs?
AB: Ida Jolles
always sought new ideas, new techniques, and new art forms. In fact she
held patents for some of her designs. Her younger daughter Stella was a
madly creative designer, so Madame Jolles brought her in to the business. Stella
created the poodle, penguin and marlin motifs. Her specialty was whimsical,
trendy purses made with materials like felt, sequins and beads. These were
marketed as “Ego Bags.” However, Madame Jolles remained responsible for
the petit point bags and the more conservative beaded and leather
creations. Elegant simplicity was her trademark.
Trio of Stella Jolles' cage purses
VPG: Are there any craftspersons still around who made some
of these bags, and are you in touch with them? Have you ever visited Austria?
AB: The
craftspersons are long gone. But my mother and aunt were frequent visitors
at the studio in New York’s Garment District. This was an amazing place—a
full floor in the building. My aunt, who was younger, was usually parked
in the work area, by piles and bins of beads and felt. My mother got to
see the formal showroom, where the professional buyers were served tea, and
models would “wear the bags” and stop to show the inside of the bags. Both my
mother and aunt also visited the Austrian studio. They remember the
workers in both places “oohing and aahing” over The Boss’s grandkids.
Needlepoint and beaded German shepherd purse by Jolles Original
VPG: Please tell us about your goals in re-launching the
Jolles Original brand.
AB: Our motivation
in re-launching my great-grandmother’s brand is our attempt to resurrect her as
a beacon and role model for my daughters. We hope to use the Jolles
Original brand as a living platform to tell her inspiring story.
Needlepoint and embellished flowers bag by Jolles
VPG: Anything else you’d like to add?
AB: It’s thrilling
to see that Jolles Original creations are still admired, still sought after on
places like eBay, Etsy, and—of course!—The Vintage Purse Gallery. Thank you!!!
Jolles three-dimensional flower pot bag
A HUGE THANK YOU to Mr. Blumenkranz for sharing Madame
Jolles’ story with us. For more information, please visit www.jollesoriginal.com.
